How To Choose FreeRide Skis And Poles

If you’ve decided to rent FreeRide specific skis and poles for the first time or if you’re thinking about adding a pair to your quiver (see One Ski Quiver), then this article is for you.

Regardless of whether you’re hiring or buying, we think you should own the dialogue with your ski tech or sales rep. The best way to do this is to cultivate a relationship with your local ski store. They will recognise your passion and value your loyalty so they’ll want to do their best to make sure you leave the store with the set up that’s right for you.  

Unfortunately, not everyone has a local ski store. If that sounds like you then here are some things to consider to give you the best day on the mountain. 

FreeRide Skis

Narrow your search

There are thousands of different skis on the market. Like almost everything else in the ski industry, there is no standard terminology so narrow your search to the following categories:

• FreeRide
• All Mountain 
• Backcountry 
• Off-piste

You’ll still have hundreds of juicy skis to choose from, and your perfect pair is just around the corner!

Try before you buy

Try as many skis as you can before making your decision. Most ski hire shops will let you switch out your skis every day if you opt for their premium rental package. 

Unfortunately, not all ski rental outfits offer much in the way of FreeRide equipment. If you’re renting in resort then it’s a good idea to do some internet research before your trip to find a store that can help you. Once you’ve found the right store, there’s often a discount for booking online, and if you’re serious about buying, let the ski tech know and they may even offer you a further discount on the rental deal if you do end up buying from them. 

Know your level

It’s important to select skis according to your ability and how you plan to use them. If you like long hikes into your FreeRide you’ll most likely want different skis and bindings than if you’re accessing slack-country. If you’re not too sure, then our ‘What’s Your Level?’ might help. 

Camber or Rocker?

For maximum FreeRide versatility we think you’re going to want both. Camber underfoot with rockered tips and tails, but why? 

Camber maximises edge contact which improves the responsiveness and stability of your ski. It’s ideal for carving turns when you’re riding hardpack and ensures a good grip on icy steeps. 

Rocker improves flotation in the powder. Rockered tips help to initiate turns in deep snow by bringing the tips to the surface. A rocker on the back of the ski allows for better manoeuvrability. 

Most manufacturers have their own hybrid combination of rocker and camber and you’ll want to try a few to find what best suits your style. 

Ski Length and Waist

Waist size refers to the width of the ski under the binding or ‘underfoot’. The fatter the waist the greater the ski surface area which improves flotation in off-piste conditions. But there is a trade-off: some reduced stability and manoeuvrability on-piste and on hardpack. More surface area also means more effort in the skin track. As a general rule, FreeRiders will trade uphill performance in favour of downhill stoke, but it’s still a significant factor for those looking to ride beyond the resort boundary.  

Ski length also has a bearing on surface area and therefore lift. Longer skis provide greater stability at high speeds but are harder to control. Depending on your height and flexibility, ski length can also block your ability to perform kick turns when skinning. 

 For FreeRide we think waist size starts at no less than 90mm for the very lightest riders and extends up to and beyond 140mm for dedicated powder hounds. Ski length should be somewhere between eye height and 5 cm above head height for those looking to improve their all-mountain game and 10-15cm above head height for those ready to take on the most demanding terrain.

Weight and Flex

Ski weight is generally a function of rigidity so weight and flex go hand in glove, a softer or more flexible ski being lighter than a stiffer ski. Softer skis are easier to manage while stiffer skis run faster. Manufacturers are constantly looking at ways to reduce weight without losing rigidity but if speed is your thing then you’ll want to opt for a stiffer ride – just bear in mind the extra weight you’ll be humping in the boot pack. 

Top Sheet

Don’t underestimate the importance of your top sheet. No matter how awesome the performance of your skis, if your top sheet design sucks – and there are some howlers – you’ll quickly fall out of love with them. But a sick top sheet does not guarantee stellar performance so never choose your ride on looks alone.

FreeRide Poles

The vast majority of recreational skiers pay little attention to their poles and are happy to settle with whatever the ski store has to offer. We think that pole technique is one of the things that define us as FreeRiders, so choosing the right poles for FreeRide is highly important. Here are some of the things to bear in mind when making your selection.

Material

Most ski poles are made from aluminium, although carbon options have entered the market. Carbon offer a great strength to weight ratio, but it comes at a price. Aluminium is cheaper and still has an edge when it comes to durability, wear and tear. Some manufacturers offer the best of both worlds with composite poles that combine both aluminium and carbon sections. For those wanting bombproof poles but who aren’t too fixated on weight, another option to consider is steel. Bamboo is also making a comeback. It’s not only a great environmental choice but it’s ridiculously strong too. Plus your ski poles can double up as novelty tomato canes in the summer. Win win. 

Length

If you haven’t  shortened your ski pole length since your first visit to the nursery slopes, now could be the time. We think it’s the easiest and fastest way to improve your ski technique regardless of whether you’re on or off piste. Conventional wisdom has it that the correct ski pole length is determined by holding your ski pole upside down with the basket resting on your thumb and index finger. With your upper and forearm at 90 degrees and your elbow tucked into your body, the top of the handle should be resting lightly on the ground. This is about right for novice skiers starting out on slopes well under 30°, but on steeper slopes this will push you into the back seat. Try shortening your poles by another 5cm and see how you go. Better yet, purchase some telescopic poles and you’re also set for touring (when you’ll want longer poles) as well as bumps and steeps (where you may want to shorten them even more). In really deep pow it can help to shorten your poles further still to stop them from dragging – which we all agree is a lovely problem to have.

Basket

While opinions and personal choice vary from one rider to the next there’s generally one thing we can all agree on when it comes to sticks: you’re going to need powder baskets. Whether you’re riding steeps or just poling in the traverse, those little baskets that come with piste and race poles are guaranteed to let you down when things get soft.

Straps

Ask anyone who has deployed their airbag in an avalanche, and they’ll tell you that having a ski pole dangling from their wrist didn’t make the job any easier. Some poles come with fiendishly complicated straps but we recommend a simple strap that can be easily and comfortably folded under the palm of your hand for those moments when the best kind of strap is no strap at all.

Handle

Most obviously, you should choose a handle that is a good fit for your gloved hand – no technique necessary, just use your head (well, your hand, but we don’t need to tell you that…) 

You may also want to consider a handle that extends down the top half of the shaft, especially if you’re opting for an aluminium or steel model. This will provide some insulation between your hand and the metal shaft and prevent your hands from getting cold when carrying your poles by the shaft or when touring. 

Gadgets

At the Republic, we’re easily seduced by a gadget. Some poles come with an inclinometer built into the handle, others have a camera mount. Some even have an inbuilt flask, but there’s one gadget we think you can do without: some manufacturers claim that their telescopic poles can be used as a probe in an emergency. It’s our view that you’ve already got a probe in your backpack for emergencies and a pole is no substitute – remember Lore #06: No TSP, No Party.

Whatever set up you opt for, we’ll see you up there.